Others take tips from the sous vide bible, "Cocina al Vacío," or "Sous Vide Cuisine" by a Catalan chef, Joan Roca, and Salvador Brugués, which has an English translation (Montagud, 2005) that has been a popular seller at Kitchen Arts and Letters in Manhattan. Goussault said that by law, chefs in France have to cook food immediately after it is vacuum wrapped, to an internal temperature of at least 132.8 degrees, a temperature at which the French authorities say most potentially harmful bacteria are killed. The purpose of the trip was to give a crash course in sous vide to health department officials and advise them on how the European Union regulates sous vide in restaurants. Vilgrain flew into New York on Friday with Bruno Goussault, a sous vide expert who works for the company and has trained chefs like Joël Robuchon and Thomas Keller in the technique. "There is some confusion out there among some people, that they think putting raw product under vacuum inhibits the growth of bacteria," said Stanislas Vilgrain, the chief executive of Cuisine Solutions of Alexandria, Va., which packages food sous vide and sells it to hotel chains, airlines and sports venues.
Experts who are helping the department draw up the rules say that is forbidden in restaurants in France because it increases the risk of botulism.
Something officials say they are most concerned about, which some sous vide chefs in New York do, is the practice of vacuum-sealing raw food for storage. Since the New York City Department of Health and Mental Hygiene began ordering chefs to stop using the vacuum-seal equipment required for sous vide recently, some have said the crackdown unfairly forbid a technique that is widely and safely used in Europe, where it was invented.
But that's how it is for many chefs in New York as the city health department draws up rules for restaurants that vacuum-seal food and cook it sous vide, a technique that traps flavor and moisture while it slowly cooks to remarkable tenderness. NO one likes to cook with someone hovering over his shoulder.
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